Ball-shaped buttons provided an opportunity to display the wearer’s wealth. Buttoned Kirtle: More likely to be worn as an outer garment, buttons are down the front and up the back of the sleeves.Lacing would be more likely at the back of a gown on women who had domestic help and dressing assistance. Laced Kirtle: Most likely to be worn as an undergown, the front lacing provides a flat, smooth silhouette.Anglo-Saxon “Peplos”: Pulled up to the armpit, worn over a sleeved under-garment, and fastened by brooches at the shoulders.Dresses are sometimes featured with a distinct border in a contrasting colour. Although the imports of luxurious fabrics increased with time, clothing remained very expensive. The main materials used in earlier dresses were woollen cloth, fur, linen, cambric, and, in the case of richer women, silk and silver or gold cloth. Kirtles became part of the most fashionable attire into the middle of the sixteenth century. Kirtles could lace up the front, back or side-back. Kirtles began as loose garments without a waist seam, which were later constructed by combining a fitted bodice with a skirt gathered or pleated into the waist seam. Girdles and buckled belts were already popular in the fifth and sixth century, with tools and personal items suspended from the belt. Kirtles were typically worn over a chemise or smock and under a formal outer garment or surcoat. Slits on the sides were pulled tight to fit the figure. They were loose and reached to below the knees or lower. Dresses or Kirtles worn in Europe in the 11th century were similar to men’s tunics.
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